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North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii

Bruce Jenkins




[PDF.no55] North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii

North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave  Bruce Jenkins epub
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 | #1207247 in Books |  2005-07-10 |  2005-08-05 | Original language:English | PDF # 1 |  9.00 x.70 x6.00l,.96 | File type: PDF | 230 pages

||0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.| For anyone who doubts that surfers are serious athletes|By David Martin|Google Books provides a very substantial preview of this book. I suggest reading the introduction (written in 2005). The bulk of the text was published in 1990, with added material in 1998 and updates in 2005, so this book has had a long gestation.

A bit of a further update came in November 201| |"Captures the true feelings of the world's best surfers. The best I've ever read."|-Greg Noll||"An authentic, exciting look at one of the last frontiers of American culture."|-Matt Warshaw, editor, Surfer magazine||"Brings the North Shore to your doorst

In this memorable account of 17 trips he made to Hawaii's North Shore starting in 1974, Bruce Jenkins, considered the Kerouac of surf writers, profiles the area's elite, the superstars who live to conquer Hawaii's deadliest waves. Here are the egoists, stylists, gladiators, and purists of the sport, from big-wave greats Darrick Doerner and Mark Foo to bodysurfer Mark Cunningham and bodyboarder Mike Stewart. Features 77 color photos.



You easily download any file type for your device.North Shore Chronicles: Big-Wave Surfing in Hawaii   |  Bruce Jenkins. Just read it with an open mind because none of us really know.

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